Tasting Wine: ‘Sideways’ aside

I spent a column a few weeks ago complaining about the film “Sideways.” Now, let me focus on something good that came out of that movie: It drew more attention to the wines from Santa Barbara County. For outsiders, Napa Valley has been synonymous with California wine, but I think the undisputed fact is that Santa Barbara County and other Central Coast wine regions gave birth to many of the best wines made in our state.

Back to bashing “Sideways” for a minute, I think it leaves the viewer with the perception that this area is about one grape and one grape only: pinot noir. Don’t get me wrong, I think pinot noir is one of the possible pieces of evidence for the existence of a higher power — nonetheless, it is not the whole story. Santa Barbara County is composed of several appellations and, in truth, only one, Santa Maria Valley, is highly noted for pinot noir. The Santa Maria Valley has a microclimate that is cooler than the other areas and as such is very good for pinot noir and other grapes. However, in my opinion, there are some extraordinary wines coming out of the Santa Ynez Valley further south. However, in my opinion, there are some extraordinary wines coming out of the Santa Ynez Valley further south.

What I want to focus on are three wines made from other grapes that show the possibilities and potential beyond the world of Hollywood.

Qupé Marsanne, 2004 — Qupé was founded in 1982 by Bob Lindquist. In 1987 he made his first marsanne, one of the white wine grapes grown in the Northern Rhône Valley, and, 18 years later, this is one of my favorite whites wines from California to drink. The ’04 has 25 percent roussanne, adding acidity, body and other nuances (a typical blend for White Hermitage). It is wonderfully aromatic with a “Pear William”-like nose and pear, green apple and banana fruit flavors.

Suggested retail: $17.99

Verdad Tempranillo, 2003 — Along with his wife, Luisa, Lindquist also makes this blend of 67 percent tempranillo, 17 percent syrah and 16 percent grenache. With the exception of the syrah, this is a somewhat typical Spanish blend, one that you might find in Rioja. It has the forward fruit of a California wine but with a dusty, meaty character and a huge presence of tobacco that signifies tempranillo. Beautifully balanced.

Suggested retail: $19.99

Palmina Nebbiolo, Stolpman Vineyard, 2002 — Nebbiolo, Piedmont’s regal grape, has been attempted before by various folks in California but Steve and Chrystal Clifton have really figured it out. This single vineyard needs some time to open so give it at least an hour to breathe, but then be prepared for the seduction. I sip as I write, inhaling the tar, root beer and pipe tobacco chased by opulent red fruits. So glad truffle season is upon us.

Suggested retail: $31.99

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